Monday, July 13: Day 40: Exploring Lasqueti Island
🗺️ Coffee, Granola, and Getting Organized
We arose late this morning (8:45ish, which is definitely sleeping in for us!). Last night, I was up a bit later than usual trying to figure out how to add the stops we’ve made on our trip to the noforeignland app on my computer. By the time we first found out about this app, we were already well on our way, so now I’d like to add each of our stops along the way to properly document the journey. After watching an episode of The Resident, of course, I finally figured out how to add an anchorage and then headed to bed.
We started our morning with our usual coffees and some granola—me with my Siggi's strawberry yogurt. After breakfast, we decided to head ashore and check out this off-grid island. I was so excited to go explore.
Greg captured some photos while we were there, which was a good thing because I completely forgot my phone! In fact, I accidentally left my computer wide open on the cockpit table right alongside my phone. Luckily, everything was exactly where I left it when we got back. We’ve never had any trouble at anchorages or marinas for that matter; it feels incredibly safe at the places we visit.
🍦 Tall Docks and $3 Ice Cream
The tide was out when we arrived, leaving the shoreline bare and revealing such an interesting landscape. This island is truly unique; we definitely won't mistake it for any other in our photos!
One of the first places we wanted to check out was the local hotel, (you can see the hotel at the end of the dock in the photo above) which has a pub on the ground floor, but it was closed. We headed across the street instead and found a very eclectic spot called Provisions. It had a few grocery staples alongside fresh baked goods and homemade ice cream. A single scoop was only $3—imagine that in this day and age! We bought a loaf of French sourdough bread, a date/pecan/coconut muffin ($3.50), and a giant chocolate/raisin/oatmeal cookie ($4).
I needed to use the facilities, and the clerk told me theirs was out of order. She mentioned there was an outhouse up the street at the Art Gallery since the pub was currently closed. I was a little concerned it might be too far, but my body got in tow and we hoofed it up the hill. We found the so-called art gallery—very rustic and closed due to an Art Therapy class in session.
There was a younger couple looking around outside, so I asked if they knew where the outhouse was. The woman directed me behind the building, and I finally found it. Yes, it was a real outhouse (the smelly kind!), but it was beautifully eclectic—all wood with a turquoise floor, white walls, and some other designs I can't quite remember. I tried to focus on the eclectic part cause it was challenging to overcome the smelly part.
After I came out, the same woman told me there was a wash station around the side of the gallery. That was a wonderful surprise, as there was no sanitizer inside the outhouse. I washed my hands in an outdoor sink that featured nice-smelling hand soap and an actual clean towel hanging on a rack. It was all set up right on the side of the building—quite handy!
🧦 Time Traveling to Joy’s Shop
After that adventure, we decided to keep walking up the street. A man on a scooter stopped to ask if we were new to the island, and we told him we were anchored in the bay. He kindly directed us further up the road, mentioning a store that sold ladies' clothing he thought I'd like, plus a "free store" a bit further on. To give you a better mental picture, the roads here aren't paved at all—they are all dirt. It truly felt like going back in time.
We found the clothing shop on the right side of the road. It’s owned by a woman named Joy, who has a lot of neat stuff. I walked past the clothes hanging on racks outside and headed into a building that looked like a real store. The first thing that caught my eye was a pair of mohair socks. They were exactly like the ones I recently bought in Duncan to wear to bed! My feet get cold at night, and these socks keep them perfectly warm while letting them breathe. Joy mentioned that the ankle-length ones are great for night wear.
I kept looking and didn't make it past the jewelry display. I probably ended up spending a bit too much money on jewelry I don't strictly need, but we had a wonderful conversation with Joy! She even threw in a free homemade dishcloth, a jewelry cleaning cloth, and a drawer puller. I could have easily bought more, but I decided that was my limit for the day.
After saying goodbye to Joy, we walked over to the free store, but we didn't find anything that caught our attention. I did spot two swimsuit bottoms—which is something I actually need since mine is getting worn out—but one was the kind that ties at the sides, and the other was too big, so we moved on.
🐑 Mission-Driven Sheep & Island Logistics
By this time, I was getting peckish, so I broke into the muffin. Greg claimed he didn't want any, but guess what? He started helping me eat it until it was completely gone!
Along the way, we saw two sheep walking down the side of the road as if they were on a serious mission. You’d think they were people; they weren't afraid of anyone at all. The locals are very protective of the sheep and deer here. In fact, when we first arrived at the dock, we saw a massive sign stating that No Dogs are allowed off-leash, and they will be shot if caught running free because of the local livestock and wildlife. Look out, dog owners!
We found ourselves back at the art gallery and stopped to see if it had opened yet. Even though the sign said "Open," the door was locked—I think they operate on "Might Be Open" hours. I used the outhouse and washed my hands one more time, and then we headed back down to Provisions because it was getting late (around 1:45 PM). I guess I was looking at that jewelry and chatting for a long time!
Greg was still hungry, so he got a pizza bun, and I got a single scoop of their homemade ice cream—served in a real dish (not paper) for $3, which was excellent. We struck up a conversation with another couple at the table across from us. The woman told me she has lived on the island for 52 years, so I guess she likes it! Her partner had only been there for two years but loves it just as much.
Provisions runs entirely on solar power and a gas generator. Living here requires some serious logistics. The ferry to Vancouver Island only runs three times a week depending on the season, and you can't always count on getting aboard. In the summer, it gets so packed that if you miss it, you might have to wait a few days for the next one. You really have to plan out your provisions carefully if you live here, and booking appointments on the mainland must be tough. It would definitely be smart to have a friend on Vancouver Island you could stay with in case you get stranded!
🩰 A Famous Teaser for Tomorrow
After our snack, I noticed the pub had finally opened, but we decided to head back to Lil' Ollie and save a deeper exploration for tomorrow. There is a dance studio further past the pub that we really want to see. It’s supposed to be incredibly unique and has a fascinating history.
Joy had told us all about it and even showed us a large photograph of it taken from the ceiling with a fish-eye lens. It was stunning. I asked if I could take a picture of her photo, and she said I could. She also mentioned she had postcards of it for $2, so I bought one instead! I'll save that photo for tomorrow's post when we go see it in person. Apparently, this dance studio is quite famous—even a famous Russian politician's daughter took lessons there.
Stay tuned for tomorrow's off-grid adventures!
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